I was six years old when I received my first wristwatch as a gift from my Grandfather. It featured a shiny blue dial, a rotating bezel, and a nylon strap. It lit a flame that, after many decades, still burns brightly.
Needless to say, the watch did not last long. Constant biking and skating accidents eventually totalled the watch. In search of a replacement, the cheap and ever-changing colourful array of Swatch watches became daily companions.
After finding out that collectors would pay silly money for 'rare' vintage pieces, I crossed the threshold into the world of full time collector and part time dealer.
Fast forward in life to when a real salary started coming in, and the collecting started in earnest: I got hooked on the marque with a crown. No..not Von Buren... Rolex. One Submariner led to many. Then GMTs. Explorers. Tudors and Omegas. Then came a financial setback, and where once were watches, a void now resided.
Without a watch... and constrained budget... I had to find a surrogate. A local auction house offered a blackened diver with a loud orange-painted minutes hand. Many road-trip miles and a few auction hours later, it turned out I was the only bidder. With said watch in hand I started doing some research on it... typical me; purchase first, learn after.
Soon armed with four orange-minute handed Squale, I registered with Watchuseek and proudly presented my pieces in the proper forum. Inspecting and analysing other watches posted there, I gained some insight into the vast array of models and varients produced.
Frustrated with the typical copy-and-paste 'official story' I started to work on my own database. This is when Squale Whale entered my life and ruined everything. His help and advice has deepened my analytical connection to vintage Squale. We exchange information every day. We are watch buddies... Squale nerds. And thanks to him we finally have THE reliable page for Squale collectors, of which I am proud to contribute to.
My collection is big. But I dream bigger. I dream of a Blancpain Bund. I dream of a PVD MM. And, of course, I dream of a Spirotechnique. The journey continues...
*Editors Note: go grab yourself a beer... this may take some time to get through.
One of the first 1521 case Squale made... note it retains the crown-@-3 configuration of the 1000m, but now has the classic 1521 bevelled lugs and asymetric case, plus the simple printed acrylic bezel and orange mins hand.
Here we have one of my smaller pieces; an early 20 Atmos Herodia branded Super. These 'base' models normally came with a steel bezel, so it is nice to see such a beautiful acrylic piece in place. Unfortunately, the previous owner painted the minute hand black. I guess not everyone is attracted to the feature that we all love so much.
One of my 'impossible to find' pieces; an early crown-@-3 Master 100 atmos. The red dial and bi-colour red-cream bezel are to die for. But there are unusual features on this watch that have yet to be understood... not least the dauphine hands. Slight differences in case shape from other crown-@-3 Masters could indicate it being a prototype.
This is a later Master from the 70's... the 1521 case now looking more familiar with the crown at 4. Retailed by the Genovese supplier Bordegnoni, it is hard not to love the gingerbeer fumoso dial and black acrylic bezel.
Another Master with the crown-@-4, but this Eagle Star from Canada, is later, 80's, and features the at-the-time more expensive quartz movement option. And, obviously, the ultra desirable black/orange bezel.
Another Master. And, another 'high spec' quartz. But this one, branded 'Diving' and running a griffen logo, sits inside a 'fat case' just like you find on the Blancpain Bund. For years, rumours swirled about this piece. The true story of its history was broken by this website.
Onto one of my 'ultra special' pieces... a thick-case professional 1521 from the 1980's. What makes it so special is the acrylic bezel (normally reserved for the Master series) and, obviously, the radical full lume dial. Some think it is one of the modern full lume 1521 at first glance. To Squale collectors; it's a grail.
When it comes to Squale, one thing you can be sure of is that you can never be totally sure of the truth. Where some Squale are clearly franken (bodged together out of random broken watches) others are far more curious with traits that make one consider the possibilities. Take this 'Master'. It runs a 100 atmos case but a 50 atmos dial. Interestingly, this can be found on other Berios examples previously owned by factory staff. The curious trait on this one is the lack of a serial number.
Talking of unusual traits... one that shows up quite often on Squale is the so called 'naked' or 'nude' dial, where there is no logo at 12. Like this thick case 50 atmos example here. These dials were blanks that retailers and other brands could buy and re-brand to their own needs. I guess this example, that is in NOS condition, was probably a salesman's sample.
From thick case PVD to thin case PVD Squale. Indeed this Master, made for UK based Sub Aqua company Blandford, is part of a small run of 100 Atmos watches that were the first to trial the matt black finish on the skinny 1521 case.
Another PVD case, and in seriously sweet NOS condition, is this 50 Atmos 1521 with a beautiful blue fumoso dial and creamy tritium lume.
On now to one of the targets of every serious Squale collector, and one of my favourite pieces; the mk.2 Marina Militare. It's not some flashy NOS 'safe queen' either... it's got that proper used by the military vibe. Note the special set of skinny hands used on these watches.
Here is (yet) another rare one... a Berios 50 Atmos Professional from the very last run of PVD watches Squale made before they closed their doors after the quartz crisis bit. Note the gorgeous acrylic bezel (similar to the mk.1 SS Marina Militare).
A special 1521 for jeweller 'Alessandri' who was based in St.Margherita Ligure. This is a mk.2 edition and there were thought to be only 10 made. Again... note the skinny hand set.
One of the most understated and underrated Squale... the so-called NOS 1521. There were two runs of this watch; the first built in 2007/8 from new parts that sat in boxes since the late 1980s. This one is from the second batch in 2009, as identified by the hour hand (which is not the skinny type).
One thing that will amaze anyone getting into collecting vintage Squale is just how many short run specials the factory produced (for all sorts of clients, from dive stores to military regiments). This one, for the Folgore parachute regiment out of La Spezia, looks to have never been touched by grubby army hands.
This triple-branded beauty was made close to the end for Squale. It sits on its original bracelet, and features beautifully aged tritium lume, a lovely lollypop seconds hand, and a bi-colour aluminium bezel inlay.
Made by Horus, that was hugely responsible for the success of Squale after the factory doors opened again in 2007, this is one of 5 prototypes made with Alessia's signature on the dial. One of the 5 was gifted to Alessia after her first world record success.
Another 1521 made by Horus is this prototype of the Limited Edition 'dive girl' 50 Atmos. The actual release of 50 watches ended up being in 'satinato' blasted cases. Unfortunately, Gnomon copied this polished case with orange lollypop prototype and sold a number of similar pieces before they were mysteriously pulled from sale.
Talking of Gnomon, a Squale dealer based in Singapore, they have made a vast array of limited edition modern Squale. The one that truly stands out as special is the first one they released; the Opaco Originale. Made in three batches, the last batch having screw fix bezels. Squale have always had slightly quirky designs, and this has buckets of character. Love it.
One thing always leads onto another... and here is another Squale for another international dealer; this being for Beams who were based in Japan. Along with the incredible camo dial, it also features a domed sapphire crystal. Mad.
And here is another, more contemporary, 1521 made for a dealer in Hong Kong. Along with the green dial and green bezel insert, it features neat Limited Edition engravings on the case back.
And, finally, a right blinder... literally. This is the Yellow Racer by RJL in America. There were 15 of these made using blindingly bright NOS T-marked dials that, rumour has it, were originally made at the request of a movie production company - RJL then had Squale make watches out of the remaining parts that were left over. Pretty cool.
Alrighty, Squale scavengers (I apologise, that sounded more rude than intended... we all like a rare bargain). So, welcome to the third and final installment of this three part 'staff special' offering up a trillogy of killer pieces from trois (urgh, I can't keep saying 'three'... and, anyway, it keeps our French readers happy) TSC team members, at discounted prices discounted exclusively to our website users. Check out the hoard from Squale Shark...
First up is his Gerard Tavernier Squale 2001... and what a wonder it is; probably as clean as you could ever hope to find one of these.
Originally sold in 1988, this 40mm beauty must be one of the last 2001 that was ever sold - and it helps explain its outstanding condition. Bezel is perfect, dial and chapter ring are near mint, and the tritium lume is all good too.
Along with its rare red-tipped seconds hand, you also get its original warranty card and signed bracelet. To you... just £850. Now that's a bargain.
squaleshark@outlook.com
Next up on the block is his prized 'Power Reserve' Milano Master... one of just 300 made (and just 60 were in this colour way).
If you've not bumped into one of these before, they are 43mm at the bezel edge, and house a proper ETA 2892-a2.
They run a hand-made acrylic bezel that harks back to the 1000m Master, but these, due to the crystal exhibition case back (to show off the engraved rotor), have a reduced depth rating of 60 atmos (or 600 metres). These will be one of the most expensive modern Squale to buy in comming years. But for some reason he is letting you nab this one for £1300. He has clearly lost his marbles.
squaleshark@outlook.com
Last, but not least... well, actually it is least; in terms of price, anyway... is this super rare Berios 1553.
You have probably seen the 1553 before, but not like this. This still runs a quartz (like the old 1553 sold to North Eagles) but is sat in a turtle case (a modern interpretation of the hyper rare 1522) and topped off with a metal bezel like the rare ltd. edition Master.
He is asking £250. I tell you, the chap has sun stroke or something. I might buy this one myself.
squaleshark@outlook.com
Bene, Squale hunters... here is the second installment of a three part Squale Gold special, with watches being sold by the TSC team; at prices discounted exclusively to our website users! This here three are from Big Ffish...
One of the most coveted Limited Editions Squale have prduced in modern times is the Opaco Originale. A matte finished 1521 with bags of character and lots of unique features.
There were 99 of these produced in total, made in three seperate batches; the last batch made tipping over into the more modern case with engraving on the flank and a screw fixed bexel. This piece is from that final run.
Unique features of this watch are manifold. It has a matte ceramic 'bund' bezel - its strility only broken by a luminous triangle marker that is actually 3 dimentional. The dial is based on Squale's 'militare' style, with batton markers instead of circular plots - and the lume has been hand applied for a 3d high build look. It also features a red tipped seconds hand and a matching red Squale shark logo.
Special TSC user price is 1800 Euros.
squaleFF96@proton.me
Next up is an early 20 Atmos with the case reference '1157', making it part of the Super family. Its serial, 672xx, puts its production right at the very end of the 60's - so after over 55 years of hard service, it is impressive how much charm it has managed to keep.
Case edges and chamfers are sharp, so it is clear the watch had been treated with respect.
While the black lacquered dial is all original, the hands have been relumed by a previous owner. But the signed Von crown is present, and the blue/white bi-colour acrylic bezel is beautiful.
Special price for this forum is 1000 Euros.
squaleFF96@proton.me
Last one for this second special instalment is a rare 1521 prototype. Those of you who've been collecting Squale for a while will know the look of the Alessia Zechinni LE well, but can you spot the subtle differences of this piece to the production version?
The 50 production watches were sold in a matte case; but this proto runs a fully polished case. And where the production watches run a seconds hand with white lume, this special piece features orange lume.
It is said that there were five protoypes in this format made, all of which stayed with the staff at Horus (the retail partner Squale worked on the project with).
The watch is in excelent all round condition, and comes on a Squale Tropic strap and in a blue Squale roll.
Special TSC price is 1600 Euros.
squaleFF96@proton.me
Ciao, Squale hunters! And welcome to the first installment of a three part special. With global turmoil making life hard for many, I thought I'd pull together some 'Squale Gold' being sold by the TSC team... with prices discounted exclusively to our website users. We kick off with three from me...
First up is my Squale Polipetto Tribute. These special pieces come in an antique oak case, with Galeazzi tool knife and signed certification.
Back in the 80's, these Polipetto Supers were made under contract for an Italian police unit that had dive responsibilities (like searching rivers and lakes). Unlike the elite military watches Squale made that were, to be kind, fat; these Polipetto watches did not need giant seals or super-thick crystals, and so have super slender cases that wear like a dream.
The Tribute was a run of 30 watches using the last of the Polipetto cases fitted with all new parts, including a hand finished dial.
When these pop up, they list at a zesty £4000. But that seems hardly fair. So how about mine, signed 04 of 30, for just £2000. Yeah... that's better.
squale.whale@the-squale-collector.com
If the Tribute, even at an utter bargain price, is too toppy for your reach and/or a bit modern for your taste... don't worry; I got you covered! Check this gorgeous Ticin from the early 1960's.
Yep, this is actually pre Squale. It is a Von Buren piece, with signed crown - but the crown is a simple push-in, not screw-down.
It's got a lovely aged dial with creamy radium lume, and the original bezel is in great shape.
What would you like to pay for this piece of well cared for Squale history? £1250? Seems sensible. But £750 sounds better, eh!
squale.whale@the-squale-collector.com
Finally, for this first installment, is a right little corker; a beautiful Ausal skindiver from the mid 60's. It clocks in at just under 39mm, so wears beautifully (it's light and slips under any cuff with ease). And runs a Felsa 4007 behind that bronzing sunray dial. The tritium lume is amazing, and the acrylic bezel is stunning. For its age, it really is just perfect.
The last Ausal 250 I saw listed in this condition went for 2000 Euros. Edit: 250 Ausal now sold.
squale.whale@the-squale-collector.com
One of the things that got me totally hooked on vintage Squale, and sent me down a rabbit hole (or whatever the equivalent diving analogy should be - it's early Sunday morning and I've not had my coffee yet) is that there are many utterly amazing Squale-made watches out there that stand out as being unusual. These rare (and drop dead gorgeous) watches are intriguing. They tell part of Squale history. However, due to the lack of solid production records (either due to slack book keeping or loss of documents after the company collapse in 1995) it is close to impossible to research these interesting items.
Anyways... here is one such example that has popped up for sale; a Berios branded beast in mint condition. Can you spot the interesting features about it, and what makes it so intriguing? Let's dig in and investigate this hunk of Squale history.
If you haven't already spotted it (shame on you!) the main feature to slap you in the face with this piece is that it's a Destro. If you don't know what a Destro is (shame on you again!); they are a watch built specifically for left handed people. See the picture above, and note how on this piece, the crown sits on the left side (at 10 o'clock). This makes it easier for 'lefties' to adjust time and date.
It's a stunning and unusual look. But it's not the only thing to stand out. Based on a fat Master case - the same as used for the Blancpain - it is rated at 100 atmos, and yet the stunning starburst blue dial reads '50 atmos'. The blue acrylic bezel is also unusual on this chunky case. Inside is the expected ESA 536.121 movement, but it runs a lollypop seconds hand instead of a simple stick.
It is truly one of the most beautiful and interesting Squale I've seen recently. But how did it come about? The current seller bought it at the turn of the millennium from a chap who used to work at Squale. As always, there is no documentation. However, riffling through the different possibilities for this piece, the most likely story is that the previous owner had the privileged access to create his dream Squale, and so personally selected the exact look he wanted, and signed the build off... with his left hand.
It is for sale right now - serious purchase enquiries should be sent to rlx5513@gmail.com
Whassup, fellow vintage Squale hunters! I hope life is being kind and that you have a tidy balance on your paypal account... because we found some well tidy examples for you to buy!
Kicking things off is this super rare white 1521. Originally made in 2014 for a company called Beams, in Japan, this example didn't actually make it out of Europe, as it was sold in Italy by Watchuwant. It was built using one of the first new 1521 cases Squale had made after running out of NOS cases, and so features the now-deleted feature of the engraved logo on the case flank.
What really makes this one special, though, is the dial. Not just that it is white, but that it features arabic numerals - and once featured Tritium, but was factory relumed in Superluminova.
A bold set of black hands finish the deal off nicely, and inside is a real ETA 2824.
It's listed in Italy on Vinted.it at a great price.
This is a proper rare beast. I am lucky to own one, and so know its history well. It is the last Master Squale made before the company collapsed in 1995. The warranty card on my example is dated 1993, so this piece will be of a similar production year. This example is in honest condition, and does have a small imperfection on the acrylic bezel insert at 40. But it is still a total stunner and remains one of the most sought after examples of the Squale 100 atmos Master.
It's listed on xamlam.com right now.
Finally, for this installment, is a right little corker from my own collection; a beautiful Ausal skindiver. I am focusing my collection on the Master series, and so I have a nuber of vintage Squale for sale right now.
This Supermatic example from the mid 60's clocks in at just under 39mm, so wears beautifully (it's light and slips under any cuff with ease).
It runs a Felsa 4007 behind that bronzing sunray dial. Tritium lume is amazing, and the acrylic bezel is stunning. Just perfect.
Contact me direct on squale.whale@the-squale-collector.com
The vintage Squale drought continues... where have they all gone? Still; I have managed to find three interesting buys for you. And we will start with the big hitter...
Known as the AA series, of which there are a few iterations, these watches are an extremely rare hand wind Landeron chronograph designed for pilots set into a Squale case. And this one, being the AA1345, is considered to be the best.
It features what is very similar to an asymetrical 39mm Super case, and the same acrylic bezel you would expect to see on the 250 Supermatic. And, being the 1345, it also features the super rare 'big eye' variant dial.
There were rumours that the plane icon matches the outline of a B52 and many folk questioned if its origins were military... but I have never seen proof of this and doubt that was its history. But it is still a super cool Squale, for sure.
It's listed on ebaykleinanzeigen at a great price right now.
Next up is a watch that is beyond the fringes of what this site focuses on (Squale pre-1995). However, this piece is far too pretty to ignore. Originally created for AWCo as a limited edition of 40 green dial 1521, we know of around 10 additional pieces that were sold a few years later in Italy; and this is one of those. What makes this special is the real (not printed or painted) fumoso dial - where the edges of the dial get darker from a heat treatment process. This is known as the Green Envy, but keep your eyes open for the Red Passion and Blue Soliel, too.
It's listed on Vinted right now.
Last one for this week is another (!) 1521 that crosses my 1995 boundary. But it's too cheap to ignore... and if you are interested... be quick; it won't last long at this price.
Made for a JDM company called Beams, this 1521 comes with a (battered) bi-colour aluminium insert set in an early push-fit bezel. Its case is engraved on the non-crown side. And it runs an ETA2824 auto. It is well used, but has bags of character.
It's listed on ebay right now for under £320!
I aim to publish a few of these Battle Royale mini-features. And, while there is plenty of scope for some fudged fights and rigged rumbles against watches that probably shouldn't be put in the ring together, I thought I'd kick off with a battle between brothers.
In the ring for this inaugural fight; it's the Squale grail - the badass Blancpain 'Civilian' - Vs a literal Squale heavyweight - the so-called 'FF96'.
A huge "thank you" must go out to the two owners of these fine vintage dive watches for their help in providing images and wisdom. The Blancpain belongs to @watch.friendly, while the Squale is owned by @j.bjr - check them both out on Insta.
Getting the obvious bit out of the way first, both these here pieces were made by Squale. Or to be slightly more accurate, made for Squale. The fat Blancpain was a small order early 80's creation sold to the Germans along with a batch of mil. spec. 'BUND' watches for a specialist military dive unit, while the chunky Squale was available throughout the 80's and into the early 90's (right up until you know what!) through their usual channels and with various brands emblazoned on the 'militare' dial (so called due to the bold, high-build lume batton markers originally specified on the BUND).
Both also share similar specifications. They both feature a 41mm uni-directional bezel stuffed with an acrylic insert. They both have 40.5mm wide cases (if measured from the flat surface on the crown side to the widest part opposite). And both are around 16.5mm tall, with a lug-to-lug reach a snick over 48mm. I mean, what with it wearing a Von branded crown, it is hard to identify which watch is pictured above (it's the Blancpain Civi', by the way).
It's worth noting that the military version of the Blancpain, the BUND, does feature a few differences - most notable beyond the sterile bezel insert are the drilled lugs and bi-directional bezel.
Heck, both even run similar 25j ETA automatics (although the Squale was also available with a quartz option that at the time was considered an upgrade). However, the Blancpain, for your monies, gets a swanky rotor on its auto proudly marked with the 'Rayville' brand (just as you will see on the casebacks of the 'No Rads' Squale recently released with AWCo using NOS Blancpain cases they found in storage).
Flipping these flippin' heavy units over reveals one more small difference; the Squale features the now ubiquitous 'shark in the sea' engraving with the statement 'Professional' standing loud and proud; while the Blancpain is a far more German affair. Way less flamboyant and shouty, the Civilian carries engravings so fine they will probably be mostly buffed away if the watch has been worn relentlessly. And unlike its BUND brother, it does not carry military designation numbers.
So... here's where I try not to get too 'fan boy' for the Squale in the ring. I'll put my hands up high and say, of course, I would dearly love to own a Blancpain, @watch.friendly has owned his Civilian for many years and is sill in love with it. However, I am but a (good looking) poor man, and these beasts don't come cheap any more. The last BUND I saw sell was late last year and it went for 18,000 Euros. And the last Civilian I saw went for over 14,500 Euros in private auction.
And this is where the Squale comes out swinging with its knockout blow... you see; as @j.bjr found out, you can purchase a Professional 'fifty fathoms' in new old stock condition for under 3000 Euros. And, hell, if you like 'em rough; you can still bag a beaten-up quartz for less than a grand.
I will say this, though... I doubt it will be this way for too much longer. I can see prices doubling over the coming few years; their current value for money is that good!
So here is the deal... even with prices now firmly on the up; vintage Squale still make for the best value vintage watches out there. However... you must understand one negative; many parts no longer exist. I mean, a set of nice hands for the 1000m Master are litteral unicorn poop. And; it seems the vulnerable high dome Plexiglass crystal for the vintage Master (both 1000m and 100 Atmos) has now reached this spikey point too.
With a diver being a tool watch, chances are that any original Squale you find from the 60's, 70's, or 80's will have many scars on the thick plastic crystal. Scratches and gouges are common. So if you have a condition OCD, you have two options... polish or hunt down a NOS spare. The latter is a better option, as no matter how much polish is used... stress cracks don't disappear.
But NOS high dome plexi for the Master Squale are now all but gone. Thankfully, they can be found on the various private sales websites around the world (on a rare occasion). But I can tell you from costly experience... most of these plexi are not what they are sold to be.
As I recently revealed in another of my information 'Nugget' features; most of the 70's and 80's plexi for the Master had a handy Von Buren stamp on them (see pic above), making identification of a genuine part easy (well, sort of... you may need a macro lens to see the stamp). But 60's and 90's parts did not feature the Von stamp at all, meaning fake NOS crystals can be sold as genuine, giving the seller a massive profit and the buyer a bit of plastic rubbish.
Above is a shot of an NOS 100 Atmos plexi I bought last week for £120. You can see in the picture it carries a few storage marks (most notably by the 'b' in 'standby') but you can also just about see the 'Von' stamp (below the letter 'y') proving this is the real deal.
Below is one of three others I bought in the last year from different sellers. This one cost £100 plus shipping and, while it does fit the 1000m and 100 Atmos Master case... it is not a Squale part. At best, it is a cheap piece of crap...
Look how the fake plexi distorts the text compared to the real Squale item. There really is no comparison beyond the fact the flange dimension allows it to be clamped into the Squale case (hell, even the dome shoulder ends up below the bezel).
So here is what to look out for... and remember; it is easy to identify the real one in this side by side picture, but it is much harder when the crystal is on its own - so take your time and be sure.
While both fit the Master, the real Squale plexi is on the right. The one on the left is what is most often sold as a Squale Master plexi, but is actually from a Philip 702 Caribbean. While it fits the case mount, all other specs are wrong.
Don't bother with cheap fakes unless you are desperate. Indeed, if you are; ask me... I have plenty of the fake ones now through careless buying from unscrupulous sellers.
Real plexi dimentions:
Flange diameter - 33.8mm
Flange thickness - 1.6mm
Total height - 8mm
Two of my fakes are around 1mm less in overall height, the third has side walls at a more relaxed angle.
Holla fellow vintage Squale hunters! I trust life is treating you well and that you have some cash left in your paypal account... because we found some vintage gold for you to buy! This time, we have a hattrick from Chrono24.
Let's kick things off with a stunning little Berios y1545. How could you not fall in love with this deep blue sunray dial with white chapter ring and 'pepsi' style bi-colour bezel?!
It looks to be in fantastic condition considering it was built and sold in the 1970's. But it could do with being sat on a period rubber strap instead of that modern mesh.
Inside is an automatic ETA that the seller says is working just fine. What a beauty! And, being 36mm, it will suit those with smaller wrists, too.
It's listed in Italy on C24 right now at a great price.
Looking for a cheap banger Squale? How about this bad-ass PVD coated 1521? What makes this one interesting, along with its low price, is that it is one of the last Squale 1521 made using some parts left over from the 1980's. As is was one of the last, it does feature some new parts too, though. The case, press-fit bezel, and caseback are all NOS parts, but the dial and hands are modern. The seller says he bought it new two years ago, so it must have sat in a shop store since 2014.
It's listed on Chrono24 right now, and its cheap.
Finally, for this week at least, is another little beauty; a 36mm Medium 1515.
Of all the Mediums, and there are a lot; this variant has the best bezel, hand and dial combination.
The side profile on these mediums is really nice. They are quite chunky, so wear a little larger than you would expect. However, this diminutive size remains just outside of current fashions. But who knows... 36mm could be the hot thing in a few year's time.
It's listed on C24 right now.
What in the world is going on out there, Squale hunters? It's like the pool of vintage Squale has dried up. There was a spectacular Master up last week, but that sold within the first few days. So, let's get straight into what was left...
There is another interesting Master out there; a Donax 100-Atmos. It looks pretty honest, with case and crystal wear as you would expect for such a piece. It's nothing crazy special, but it has a pretty tough look about it. What makes me list it here is the fact it runs a 'fat hour' hand. These, in my mind, look fantastic, but are usually only found on the quartz variants; and this one is automatic.
If you have been buying bargain Masters for a good few years, you may think it expensive, but the price is where I would expect a Master to be at right now... everything is going up in value ATM.
It's listed on C24 right now.
Next up is something few folk have ever seen. Known as the Tiger 'City'; it's a 200m rated watch that is 90's in design. But the key point with these is that the case was small and slim enough to easily slide up a banker's cuff when he had to head into work after a swim.
They are on the smaller side at 38mm, but that is kind of the point. They have a nice enamel bezel, and an eta2824. Strangely, they all have the number 05/50 engraved on them... and nobody knows why.
They aren't my cup of tea... but thankfully, we all have differnt tastes.
It's listed on Vinted right now.
Last one for this week is actually one of mine. Now that I've realised I am hooked by the Master (67-95), all others in my collection are going to make room (and funds) for more 1000m and 100-atmos action.
This one is a chunky mumma! An FF96 from 1983 with nude Militare dial, acrylic bezel, and freshly serviced quartz movement with NOS coil pack installed.
It shows some wear and tear, but nothing nasty... it's just got some subtle flavour. The price on this one is cheap too; it won't hang around for too long.
It's listed on insta now.
There are many targets for the lovers of vintage Squale. And when you disappear into the deep collector lagoon, there are niches within niches hiding rare Squale that only the most commited know about. One of these was a special FF96 that wore a 'Militare' dial emblazoned with the brand 'Diving' - just like the one above that belongs to TSC contributor, 'Big FFish'.
The FF96, if you are new here, was like a chunky 1521 that was originally designed for military use. The more robust case was created to house bigger seals and thicker crystal for improved reliability.
Now, most people who know about the FF96 also know that it is, in large part, the foundation stone of the Squale brand. As it is this case that Squale provided to Blancpain for the creation of the historic military 'Bund' watch (which you can read more on here if you need to).
Along with the sterile bezel 'Bund', Blancpain also released around 100 'Civilian' models with standard bezel inserts. And while Squale were producing these cases, they also produced many more than Blancpain required. This led to a few special watches being made that are now prized by the collector.
One of these is the 'Diving'; a watch that in recent years has had the forum comunities alight with rumours and discussion. Where did these come from? Who were they made for?
With no evidence documented about these pieces, the key focus point was the logo. The griffin bearing a trident led many to believe two things. First that these watches were made for a Swedish client, and second that this client was military or, at least, an elite unit of deep divers.
Now, with huge thanks to TSC contributor @squale.shark (on insta), the mystery is finally solved. His recent research, involving the purchase of old diving magazines, has revealled two advertisments for these 'Diving' Squale... and they are not military.
Indeed, they are not Swedish either, as the distributor seems to be a UK based yachting chandler.
So, what we have here with the 'Diving' is an exceptionally robust watch for those who enjoyed a life at see - both on it and in it.
And while today most collectors seek and pay more for the Automatic version (like my old battered example pictured here), it is interesting to note that back in 1980 when these adverts were published, it was the Quartz version that commanded a higher premium price.
Righto, Squale hunters... I know there is plenty excitement around the 65th Anniversary of Squale and the new titanium Master... but there are some amazing vintage buys out there right now; so let's get straight into it...
Kicking things off is a stunning Kalos 1000m Master. It's a real blonde dial beauty, with a rare bi-colour bezel insert in taupe and yellow. Condition is fantastic, and the price is right on the money. This one won't hang around for long!
It's listed on eBay right now (but it is cheaper right here... click on the classified tab in the menu!)
Next up is a something that still doesn't really command much attention from the Squale collectors out there... the 36mm 'Medium' 30 Atmos.
But... I have a feeling these little asymetrical cased wonders will become more popular in the coming years. And this one would certainly be a fine buy.
It's not some mint 'collection queen', no, this one is a patina heavy brute with many battle scars - and looks all the better for it.
As for that 'tropicalised' dial... well... its simply gorgeous, ain't it.
It's listed on eBay right now.
Finally, how about a bit of rough? This one would make for an interesting everyday beater. Like the Medium above, this one is properly battle scared. But at 43mm, its a fair chunk bigger.
This needs work though! The crown does not screw down, and it's not been serviced recently. But it's easy to sort. The price is too high... but offers are being accepted. Try a low ball; you never know.
It's listed on eBay right now.
For kids growing up in the 80's, Swatch watches were all the rage, and I remember my first collection (now long gone) well. But despite a watch purchase here or there, over the years my horological interest fell to a low simmer and, eventually, I actually found myself not wearing a watch at all.
As an adult, I began working in the world of antiques, fine art auctions, and appraising. In 2012, a Tornek-Rayville came through the auction gallery door, and a spark reignited my passion for watches. As many collectors do, whether it's collecting comic books or American stoneware (yes, that was a passion in my life for many years as well) you experiment until your focus narrows: likes, dislikes, desires, shapes, types, and styles—and having the luxury of seeing firsthand so many different timepieces at my job, I was lucky in getting to study them all. One day while I was surfing the web, I came across a stainless steel dive watch with a faded blue bezel, case back stamped Y1545, dial marked "Decor" and a striking orange minute hand. I bought it. And in that instant, my collecting path was decided. My journey down the Squale rabbit hole had begun...
This is the watch that started my Squale love! A cheeky Y1545 signed "Dacor" on both dial and case back, with faded "fancy" dial and an unsigned crown. The bezel insert is the same drilled and lumed aluminium insert as found on the Blancpain.
My second Squale... a 1000 meter Master co-branded "Melpier Watch" with gloss black standard dial, single-color acrylic bezel in pretty good condition, and unsigned crown. It's serial number being 58xxx puts it in the second production run of the 1000m, but even those with serials in the 60xxx had chrome minute and seconds hands... so these were replaced at some point.
The Melpier Master was followed by... another 1000 meter Master! This one is co-branded "Electra", and has a deep blue standard dial with what appears to be specks of tritium dust throughout. But the bi-colour acrylic bezel is in superb condition. As is so often the case with Squale of this age... the crown is unsigned. But this one does feature a signed Squale bracelet! The serial on this one is just a few hundred away from my first Master.
I bet you can't guess what my fourth Squale was? Yup... another 1000 meter Master - these things are adictive. Co-branded "Wonder Watch", this one has an extremely unusual black dial marked "1000M Super Squale" in red and "buckshot" indices. There is some staining to the bi-colour bezel, but that is expected on these. And to prove its had a hard life, the case back engravings are just about worn away with so many scratches from attempted opening over the years.
Next up came a later 100-Atmos Master co-branded Berios. This one had a stunning fumé "fancy" dial, bi-color orange/black acrylic bezel insert, signed crown, signed Squale bracelet, and case sticker still on the back! This is probably the closest to a NOS Squale I own, even with the tritium 5 o'clock lume plot missing, but I do find myself wearing it... so it soon won't be!
One of the most important Squale to me in my colletion was a gift from my lovely partner when I turned the big 5-0. It's a 100 Atmos Master co-branded "Spirotechnique" with lovely patina to the lume plots at the indices, a faded minute hand frame, and good sign of scuffs, dents, and scratches to the case to indicate that this watch was used as it was intended. On this one we have a signed crown (yay!), and single-color acrylic bezel insert. Inside is a 25-jewel ETA-2872 automatic movement. It still wows me.
My first contemporary Squale was the LE "No Radiobino" by Dutch firm, AWCo. This example is marked as number 10 (of the 30 produced) and features period Blancpain case and Bakelite bezel insert, and a signed 1980s Squale link bracelet - although this is not currently on the watch. I thought AWCo mentioned there would be another 60 watches using NOS cases... but nothing has been heard recently; perhaps they will never happen.
My second contemporary piece purchased directly from Gnomon, is my Squale LE "Diver Down" with sterile bezel. The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms is my grail, but for now this will do!
And as you can see from this photo there are more Squale in my family. Some have their issues, but all still bring much pleasure and the opportunity to learn.
This Viser 1521 Master has spotting to some indices and small loss to the lume on both hands... but this does not distract from the sheer beauty of that fumé dial.
The electric blue Eagle Star has faded minute hand and lume loss to hour hand, plus plenty of scuffs to the high dome crystal, but case back markings are still crisp.
My second Oscar has a glossy black "mk.2" dial, single-colour black acrylic bezel, and heavily worn but still legible case back engravings, and a signed crown.
Finally, its the only quartz watch in my entire watch collection: a 100 Atmos Master by Berios... not much to say other than that this example is darn close to perfect.
Hello Squalista! We are back with some treasure for sale that we found out there; all amazing pieces that would enhance your collection. Let's dive straight in..
First up on the block is a stunning 2002. Now don't dismiss this piece at first glance... you gotta look harder to see what's really going on. You see this is no modern 2002; it is from the 1980's - something you can spot most easily by the acrylic bezel and its creamy lumed markers at 0, 15, 30 and 45.
It comes in its original box (which is damn rare) and with a warranty card confirming its sale date of 2008. This is because it was one of the first batches of watches to be made by the Squale factory out of parts they found in boxes in the old factory store... which possibly explains the 1553 dial which, while odd... looks fantastic.
It's listed in Italy on Catawiki right now.
Next up is a Master that harks back to the very start of Squale's 1000m mission. Made for Melpier, this Master looks to be in amazing condition for its age, with no lume loss or dial degradation. Even the mono tone acrylic looks to be in pretty good shape. For the price being asked, this one is a no brainer.
It's listed on ebay right now.
Finally, we have a NOS 1521. Yes... another watch built by Squale (in 2007, just after the factory re-opened) from parts left over from the 1980's. While one of these does pop up once a year or so, most are in tatty condition. This one, though, is mint.
The NOS 1521 has many desirable features - like the skinny Marina Militare hand set - but most beautiful is the black ceracote rehaut.
It's listed on Instagram right now.
Greetings fellow vintage Squale hunters! I trust life is treating you well and that you have a bit of space left on your credit cards... because we found some gold for you to buy!
Let's kick things off with a 1521. Er, let me start that again and make it sound more exciting. Let's kick things off with an MM spec 1521 that is straight out of the 1980's and packing the perfect patina. Yeah, that's better.
The only thing stopping this from being a 5k watch is that is does not feature the MM logo undeneath the Squale at 12. But everything elses is the same. Movement, case, bezel, hands... all 80's MM spec. And just look at that lovely warm Tritium lume! Wow.
It's listed in Italy on Subito right now (for under a grand!!!)
Next up is a right blinder... litterally! This here 1521 Arancia is not the recent 'full lume' jobbie; it's a treat made in 2013 using NOS parts Squale had left in the factory from when they closed in the 90's.
If you look closely, you will spot the first tell; the fact the bezel has no screw fixings. The bezel insert also confirms this is a vintage piece, having no collared pip; just a simple blob of lume!
There were very few of these made, so grab it while you can.
It's listed on Chrono24 right now.
Finally, for this week at least, is yet another scortcher; an Ausal Super 250.
This gorgeous skin diver was made in the mid 60's, and is built around Squale's asymetrical 'Super' case. As a bonus with the 250 spec... you get a stunning bi-colour acrylic bezel - which is way nicer than the steel of the 200 or aluminium of the 300.
The dial is a lovely grey/bronze sun-ray, lume is going a nice creamy colour, and general condition is outstanding.
It's listed on Instagram right now.
My first watch was a gift from my Dad that featured Mickey Mouse - his arms would turn clockwise, and his gloved hands would point at the correct time. Well, they did for the first day. The next day I took it apart to see how it worked. It never told the time again. I was 6; give me a break.
I had a passing interest in watches ever since. And have, in the past, been a casual collector of Seiko, and a keen collector tuning fork driven Accutron (the ones that hummmm...). But things took an unexpected turn after purchasing a Squale 1521. A sickness set in that I have yet to cure.
I have been hoping to publish my first SOTC for quite a while now, but my collection has morphed a lot recently, only finding a sweet spot in the last week that felt right for my first hit.
This is not my whole collection; it's my core. I have others I bought on a whim, but they didn't bond with me. And I have others that are amazing, but no longer fit with my goals. So this here is my NFS selection of Masters from across the decades.
I will update this when I hunt down the two grails that are missing from my dream collection (a second y1522 and a second crown-at-three 1521 100-atmos with gloss black basic dial and black/orange bezel). This may take a while, as I have high OCD-driven standards. Until the 'Perfect Ten' is possible, here is my 'Crazy Eight' (in serial number order, of course)...
Number one is a rare bird; a turtle cased beauty from the year prior to the 1000m Master being launched. While the case is unfamiliar to most Squale owners, the hard-core collectors know the score. It's caseback engravings are similar to the 1000m, but carries the tag 'y1522'. While the bezel edge is aggressive compared to the usual coin edge, it interestingly saw a comeback on the rare turtle case version of the y1553. And there is no mistaking the bezel inlay is the same chrome-marker set acrylic you would find on an early Master. The hands are Supermatic spec. And the dial holds its own interesting story; as they found a second life in a Supermatic 250 after a nifty overprint with a red Trident when the 1522 was cancelled. There are some killer colour variants of this piece; and I would love to own another.
Number two is my latest find; and one that I'm truly grateful to own. Most folk interested in Squale would simply see just another 'Master', but what makes this piece so special to me, is that it was the genesis of the 1521; the crown-at-3 100 Atmos Master. You see, back in the late 60's, Squale worked on two Master types at the same time. It just so happened that the other type (that has a later serial designation) hit the market first, but this followed shortly after and, in the battle of the case shapes; this more modern and agressive watch won. There was some random common part switching between the two models that blurs the lines a little; but the case types are utterly unique. Slide the crown down to 4 on this one, and all of a sudden you recognise where the modern 1521 came from. There are even some adverts from the 60's listing this type as the 1521.
Number three is the first of the 1000m types; a beautiful blonde dial Nileg Supermatic. In comparison to the 100 Atmos above, you can see how different the case shape is. I absolutely love the 1000m case, and am surprised it has not made its way back into the Squale catalogue - although I do believe that is what the rare Polipetto and ultra rare Tribute were based on. What made me jump on this one, beyond its stellar condition, was the fact that Nileg had their cases specially ordered with a polished finish on all surfaces, rather than the usual that feature a brushed finish on the top flats. It actually makes quite a big difference to the look.
Number four will always hold a special place in my heart, as it was the first vintage Master I managed to hunt down and make my own. It looked pretty shabby when I bought it, but a new crystal (that was cracked) and crown (that was missing) sorted it. The baby blue of the bezel is so sweet, and I love the funky typography on the dial. It is unusual to find Squale branded dials this old as Squale mainly focused on building watches for other brands. Note the Supermatic hands that were a hangover from the y1522.
Number five is a recent acquisition; a deep blue fumoso sun-ray dialed Blandford S. A. 100 Atmos Master. I have had a few Blandford (the S. A. standing for 'Sub Aqua' - a dive club based in the UK); and, boy: these folks sure knew how to order a sexy dial. I mean; BSA smashed it out of the park more times than any other brand who used Squale, that's for sure. In person, this dial glows and shimmers like a jewel. The bezel is associated with a special edition (which you will see later) but was also fitted to Master's that lost their acrylic in the usual cold 'salty sea' vs 'scortching sun' beach battle. Considering this is quite a beast... it sure is handsome with it.
Number six is another beautiful Blandford 100 Atmos. And, yes, another with a hot heat-treated fumoso dial. But this variant features the classic black acrylic bezel with luminous numeral markers (that still glow). The dial on this one flips under different light between grey and purple, and is truly something that, once you go to check the time, it is hard to not keep staring at. When you do finally stop; you'll find people staring back at you wondering what the hell is wrong.
Number seven is what the proper 'special edition' metal bezel Master should look like. Note how this Ticin Elite variant features a lume only 'militare' dial style? This features on all original 'metal Masters', no mater what the brand; and the switch in lume colour to orange for the 12, 6, and 9 markers remains in use today on the 'full lume' 1521 editions. Another less obvious identifying feature of the true 'metal Master' is that the serial number is not between the lugs as usual, but stamped down the non-crown side of the case. And even more nerdy... note how Squale made a move from a fat minutes hand to the skinny type seen on the vintage Marina Militare and on to the modern 1521.
Number eight is last. Last in this here Crazy Eight, and also the last Master to leave Squale before the company went pop and the factory doors went bang. But it is also a first; first to reintroduce the sub brand 'Master' to the dial since the disappearance of the early 100 Atmos. The skinny minute hand remains from the 'metal Master', but note how Squale finally made that shift to the modern 1521 by ditching the 'lollypop' seconds hand in favour of a small rectangular 'paddle'. The typography on these is a little funky, but that funk is the Squale charm. And, anyway, all is forgiven due to the full compliment of chrome applied markers that really add a touch of class.
Holy moly... I hope you vintage Squale hunters are hungry; because we have a filling three course meal of 'Squale for sale' for you.
Lets kick things off with something you have all been waiting for... a metal bezel Master! Yes; one has finally shown up. It looks in great condition, but is running the late spec Master dial (with applied markers and oddly spaced '100 Atmos' typoograpgy), rather than the unique dial with orange lume markers unique to this model. But it is still an awesome find and you are lucky I didn't buy it myself. It's damn cheap too! Who will be first to snag it? Let me know.
It's listed in Italy on Subito right now.
Next up is a right corker! This here was part of a 300 piece limited edition run made in Switzerland in 2016. It features a unique 43mm case, with stunning acrylic bezel inlay, a modified ETA 2892-A2 movement with power reserve indicator, and a date at 12 with magnified window.
A truely special watch that is well worth the seller's asing price. Get in there... before I do!
It's listed on eBay right now.
Last, but hardly least, is a proper rarity. Possibly even more rare than the metal bezel Masters; a Super 300 HEV.
This beauty was made in the late 60's. And what makes it special, beyond the fact very few were made, and looking past that stunning acrylic bezel, is the fact that it features a Von branded crown with built in Helium Escape Valve. Age and target professional use considered; it is pretty much perfect.
It's listed on Instagram right now.
The team here at TSC scan the web relentlessly in search of the finest dive watches listed for sale. Our aim: to pinpoint a Squale for the serious collector (as often as we can be bothered). Here, we highlight some pure gold; the big daddy in the vintage Squale arena... a 100 Atmos 1521 Master.
The Master is the pinnacle of vintage Squale. Absurd 100 Atmos depth rating, highly wearable 41mm 1521 case, and stunning dials combined with beautiful acrylic bezels.
This example for Renee Watch is a prime example. It has a stunning heat treated fumoso dial in a lovely bronze sun-ray finish, paired with a classic black acrylic bezel with luminous numeral markers.
Condition is characterful. It's not NOS, it's clearly worn, and that gives it a warm charm.
There is a large scratch on the caseback, but that is pretty common on such pieces. And there is lume loss in the hour hand and seconds lollypop, but that is an easy fix.
Its a fine watch that with a small amount of gentle attention could be an amazing collectors dream.
It's listed on eBay right now.
The team here at TSC need your help. We are seeking Squale and Blandford (and any other collab) branded boxes from the 70's, 80's and 90's. We know these came in many forms; brown and black plastic; black and blue velvet; light box wood and dark hardwood. But so many of these cheap promotional packages have been tossed away that it's now hard for collectors to even find them.
So... if you have an old Squale box tucked away in a cupboard you that you forgot about (and the watch that came in it is now long sold)... please get in touch. Heck... even if you spot an empty vintage Squale box up for sale; please let us know. As even though most will be cheap plastic 'crap'... there are collectors, including us, that are desperate to save such branded boxes for the future.
The team here at TSC scan the web relentlessly in search of the finest dive watches being listed for sale. And we aim to pinpoint a Squale for the serious collector as often as we can be bothered. This time we found something profound but its not for the arachnophobes out there; it's a stunning Spider Profundus.
This is super rare in many ways. For starters; the 'Spider' brand is hardly ever seen on Squale watches (having only collaborated for a short period in the 70's). And as far as rare Squale go, the Profundus - a watch that can tell the time... and the depth you are swimming at - is certainly one of the least found models out there. And, finally; where as many of these have suffered Plexiglas failures, this one is in working condition.
The unusual caseback highlights the fact this 20 Atmos Profundus was not crafted by Squale's usual manufacturer at the time.
It has benefited from a recent document service, so there won't be too much wiggle room on the price being asked. But they state in the description that it sits on a genuine Tropic Sport... and I can tell you that it is no genuine, but an HK manufactured fake; so perhaps ask for $70 off?
It's listed on eBay right now.
I'm always struck when a collector finds a strange Squale, then posts it on social media only to be battered by loads of 'experts' claiming the piece is a 'frankensquale' (a home-brewed watch monster created from a bunch of old parts). And many are, of course (just don't tell those 'experts' they are mostly right). But, some are not monsters made of bits. No. A few are hyper rare examples of factory watches who's history is lost to time. Such it was with the mk.2 'Metal Master' we revealed last year. It seemed nobody knew about it... until one after another, collectors around the world started to realise their one odd piece was actually part of a large family. And that is how rare variants are proven... by collectors coming together and building a large body of evidence.
You see; one odd looking Squale is questionable... but if five are found that show the same design hallmarks... that there oddball becomes a rare factory variant.
And it seems Squale have a long history of dropping metal bezel specials. Hell, you can go way back to the late 1960's and, if you're extremely lucky, you might find a metal bezel variant of the 1000m Supermatic Master.
One of the 'lucky few' collectors who actually found a 'unicorn' metal bezel 1000m Master was originally so sure it was a franken, he actually took the steel bezel off and replaced it with a NOS acrylic replacement. Of course... finding out about this rare model means his rare ring of steel has now been popped right back to where it should be.
As mentioned in the previous 100 atmos feature, there are other Squale models with rare metal variants too. The chunky 2003 is one such beast, and its bezel design is almost identical to the 1521 metal Master.
There are metal bezel Mediums, including a stellar titanium case version as pictured here. If it had been 38mm, 40mm or 42mm... I would have purchased this very watch. But at 35mm... its just too small.
And then there are the 'turtle' cased y1553, which feature an aggressive toothed bezel edge. These are little known and hard to find.
If you know of anyone with a vintage metal-bezel Squale in their collection, please ask them to get in touch so we can add more meat to our Gallery.
And if you think you have a rare Squale but are not sure if it might be a franken... send us some pictures; we may know of more just like it.
The team here at TSC scan the web relentlessly in search of the finest dive watches being listed for sale. And, at least once a week, we pinpoint a Squale for the serious collector. This time we located a nice little Christmas present top yourself; a quartz Berios 1553, but in a super rare case variant I have only ever seen twice before.
Those of you that know me (and my nerdy OCD driven mission to document vintage Squale) will know all too well about my drive to confirm the existence of a machined metal bezel 100 atmos Master. I have now found around 7 of these beauties... and own two myself. But there is also a 1553 that shares a machined metal bezel with identical engravings on top. And this is one of only three in total I have ever seen.
Branded for Berios, this quartz 40mm turtle cased 200metre diver features a dazzling blue dial, has a serial number placing it in the early 1980s, and the original 'VON' branded crown.
It truly is a kick ass piece of Squale history, this. Rare is an understatement.
It's listed on eBay.
The team here at TSC scan the web relentlessly in search of the finest dive (Squale) watches being listed for sale. And, once a week, we pinpoint a Squale for the serious collector. This time we found a stunning example of one of the oddest Squale pieces there is; the UFO-cased 20-Atmos double bezel, twin crown, Supermatic compressor.
Now, that's a mouthful... but it's also an eyeful! What a crazy early 70's piece this is. And in stellar condition too.
Now, I have yet to understand why these things have two bezels. Like one isn't enough. I mean, with a rating of 20 Atmos, this is no pro spec dive watch. So perhaps one bezel, that dreamy bi-colour acrylic number on the outside, can be set as an hour marker - say "beer o'clock". And the other, that benumbered white wheel behind the glass, can be set as a minute minder... so you don't over cook your eggs.
Look, I jest. And, when it comes down to it, you won't be diving in this piece anyway... so it's irrelevant. What you will be doing is wearing this bad boy and feeling pretty damn proud to be its next guardian. Let's let collectors in the future worry about why these things had two bezels.
It's listed on eBay right now.
When I spotted that Squale had created yet another limited edition Master linked to a military corps, I have to admit; I really didn't think too much about it. Until, that is, fellow collector (and previous contributor) Steve B reached out to me about his new purchase - the Master MFO - with some insight he thought might be seriously noteworthy for collectors.
He says... " It is hard to describe why I'm a huge fan of Squale. It has something to do with a serious heritage in dive watches, the historic link with Blancpain, and the modern watches that colab with a range of military and policing units."
Steve has a, er, large number of Squale. And he loves the modern Master LE's, from stainless Galeazzi to titanium Palombari, that have been released over recent years. So I was not exactly surprised to find out that Steve bought the latest MFO release.
Steve says "Squale had made a batch of Master watches specifically for the 40th anniversary of the Multinational Force & Observers. The website states that that just 45 pieces were made, and with 25 being secured by MFO staff, 20 were now being made available to the general public... and I had to have one. In the main, the feature that really made this a target was the crown. It was not at 4 like all other iterations, no; the MFO crown is at 3."
He continues... "Excluding crown position, the case is identical to the Galeazzi, the colour pallet is similar to the Marina Militare, as is the sandwich dial, yet it feels a little more in line with the Palombari due to the font useage, white date wheel, and numerical details on the bezel insert."
But then Steve (finally) got to the interesting bit... "Squale states that there were 45 MFO produced; and yet the engraved LE numbers on the caseback suggest there are only 44. So there is either a super secret prototype numbered 00/44, or there has been a bit of a messaging mess up along the way."
"Talking of which, there is an even more obvious mess up that will, no doubt, seal the MFO's place in history as a target for the collector."
So, what is this 'mess up'? C'mon, Steve; spill the beans (or as my kids say, spill the tea)...
"Well, at first I wondered if, after the titanium Palombari, Squale had made the MFO from yet another bleeding edge material. As, engraved on the case back, along with the MASTER tag and 120 ATM rating, are the words 'STAILESS STEEL'."
"There have been similar spelling errors in the past by other manufacturers, but in this day and age of computers, it is vanishingly rare. I guess that is also part of the Squale charm for me; they can make world class watches that still feature humble mistakes. They are not perfect, and that makes them even more characterful and likeable."
I agree with Steve's thoughts, and have no doubt this will be one of those watches a collector in 40 years time will be desperately seeking to add to their collection.
Those of you that know me understand all too well that, when it comes to enjoying watches, my OCD issues create many struggles. I mean; they have to be 'perfect' (read as: in line with my brain's high - almost unachievable - expectation) or enjoyment does not follow. If I am seeking an old, beaten up FF96, even the battle scars and patina have to be 'just right'. And as for a 'fun' watch... I struggle to see how people get a kick from wearing orange or white rubber straps, let alone understanding how some people enjoy seeing Mickey Mouse pointing at the time with his rotating white gloves. So you can imagine my shock when I set eyes on the latest 1521 out of Squale HQ.
The hour hand was missing a big bite out of its side; something clearly done by a rogue shark that has left its deep 6 o'clock home and broken the surface in search of a meal. I mean, WTF?!
After a few moments trying to get my brain working again, I noticed it was tagged as an LE in association with Seconde/Seconde/. This rebel art house is run by Romaric Andre, a man who is known for 'vandalising' vintage watches, transforming them from middle of the road timepieces into art by replacing their hands with 8-bit style 'pop art' icons... a rocket, an egg timer, a sword... and has found infamy through his colabs with many serious watch brands.
In his Instagram promo, Romaric posted on how he hoped the box of the new Squale could look. And while I understand the huge cost implication of creating such a piece... can you imagine how awesome it would have been for the standard box to have had a chunk bitten out of its corner.
Now, it's not really my jam. But 'hats off' to Squale; I do love the idea behind this piece. It reminds me in concept of the BMW art cars, except you can actually own one of these creations. And I really hope it means that they will look to make the 'art Squale' an annual event.
If they do buddy up with an artist next year, it might make up for you missing out on this one, as, having just looked on the Squale e-Boutique... the Seconde/Seconde/ Limited Edition 1521 is SOLD OUT.
You know that moment in time. It's the same moment every day... work is done, a beer is in one hand, smartphone is in the other; the screen is getting battered from the speedy searches, scrolling down, and clicking deeper. Except on odd rare occasions... it's not that same moment, it's a special moment; as you finally found something rare. You got there first. And that super interesting Squale is yours for the taking. It's those moments that we collectors live for.
But hold your horses! You can't just dive in and buy... some rapid investigation is required. Sure you risk losing it; but you can't just dump your cash and realise all too late you bought a lemon. As an example, here is a story of one of those moments I had recently.
A cheap 2001 Saphir popped up on eBay. Reasonable condition. Bezel was slightly boring in black acrylic, but at least it was in fine fetter (which is rare for a 2001). But what really caught my eye was the dial. I mean, holly smoke... what the hell is that dial about?!
Now, occasionally a 'prototype' will pop up. And dial designs on these can look very slightly different. A tiny shift of the font use, a small tweak of the shark shape. That sort of fine detail stuff few notice. But this thing was not a tweaked test, it was utterly bonkers.
Clearly the vast majority of 2001 have applied markers, so this having lume plots was already interesting. But when I spotted the 'Rambo' branding, alarm bells rang loud. The Rambo was a double decker compass watch, not a 2001.
Plus... those few 2001 that are rare lume plot variants all cary the 't' markings at the bottom of the dial to notify of 'Tritium'.
Add these details to the 'mercedes' hands and slightly dodgy printing, and I thought it best to walk away. This was not a factory watch.
But the thought of it lingered in my mind. I mean; why would someone build this? Redials are not cheap. A good one will cost £500. So why redesign the whole concept of the Squale dial? It was so bizarre.
And then, just as I began to forget all about that ugly little critter... another one pops up. Not a 2001 this time, but a 20 Atmos Super with a rare bakelite bezel. And yet, the dial design mirrored that of the Hosam.
The dial on this one was way too textured for the period. And while this time the lume looked like gone off tritium, it again lacked the 't' marks. Throw in the slightly odd arrow hands, and it was another 'walk away' moment. But who is making these things?! And why?
I thought that was the end of it, but, like buses, three of these things came all at once; with this metal bezel Darwil Super adding to the oddball redial pile.
Different sellers, different auction platforms, but quite clearly; originally created by the same someone.
Why? I guess because the old dials were destroyed and they thought more could be earned if a replacement could be installed. But the cost involved makes no sense in this respect. Especially as they are now, to all intents and purposes, worthless to the collector. At best, they make for interesting banger watches.
Anyway... before you hit 'buy it now', take a breath, and study that rare Squale for a few seconds longer. Be as sure as you can that what you are about to spend on is at the very least 'real'. It's better to be 'real' and not that rare, than rare but 'highly questionable'.